Original rhinestones were crystal rocks found near the Rhine River, thus the name Rhine-Stones. Today's rhinestones are clear imitation stones made of glass, paste or gem quartz, cut and polished to a high luster. Most are backed with a gold, silver or tinted foil covering. Higher quality rhinestones, referred to as crystals, are machine cut to a high sparkle usually without a foil backing. Austria and the former Czechoslovakia are best know for quality crystals, although Chinese factories are now producing quality products as well.

Cubic Zirconia Gemstones (CZ's) are a cubic form of zirconium oxide developed in a lab as a substitute for diamonds. They have many of the characteristics of diamonds. These gems are hand cut and often set in genuine gold, silver, or platinum. CZ's are meant to be a substitute for diamonds, and are priced accordingly.

Acrylic "Rhinestones" are not stones at all, but merely pieces of plastic shaped to look like rhinestones. Thy do not have any of the characteristics of rhinestones, neither luster or brilliance, and the nature of plastic causes these "stones" to fall out of settings very easily. They may be useful in costumes, but should never be considered as jewelry.

"AB" is short for Aurora Borealis. These are clear stones that have an external coating that reflects the pinks and blues that occur in light, giving these stones a rainbow effect.

Rhinestone jewelry is costume jewelry made of base metal, a simple alloy. Most costume jewelry does not contain nickel. Better quality costume jewelry is made of brass as a base metal. The coatings used vary, but seldom contain silver or gold. Unlike real silver and gold jewelry, the silvertone or goldtone finish will oxidize and wear off over time.

1. Castings: A mold is made of base metal and rhinestones are glued into place. This is the least expensive method of producing rhinestone jewelry, and is usually the poorest quality products.

2. Prong Settings: Rhinestones are set in individual cups. point side down, and secured with 4 prongs, one in each corner. Each cup is connected to the next by a double "T" connector forming a chain. The quality of this product is dependant upon the quality of the metal used. The "softer" the metal, the weaker the setting and the more likely the stone will fall out. This chain is formed into the desired design and soldered into place. The smoothness of the soldering is also an indication of the quality of the product.

A soft cloth with alcohol is the best way to gently clean rhinestone jewelry. Since the sparkle of rhinestones is the reflection of the foil backing on each stone, it is important not to use any solvent that can destroy or effect this backing. Water and other liquids can cause the foil to separate or tarnish, ruining the rhinestone.

Rhinestone jewelry is officially listed internationally as "imitation jewelry." As such, the metals used are of low quality. The plating will fade over time as a result of exposure to air and body oils. When this happens, there is no way to reverse this. Rhinestone jewelry has a lifespan, and will deteriorate over time, unlike jewelry made of gold or silver. This is a compromise for price. A simple pair of rhinestone stud earrings may cost $2, whereas CZ pair set in 10K gold would cost $40-$50, and the same size studs of even low quality diamond may cost $150. Unlike diamonds, Rhinestones do not last forever.

Rhinestone, or any quality jewelry, was never meant to stretch. ALL STRETCH RHINESTONE JEWELRY IS GUARANTEED TO FAIL OVER TIME. What allows rhinestone jewelry to stretch is an elastic set under the stones running through each cup. As with any elastic, it will break or disintegrate over time. When this happens, the jewelry will lose it's elasticity and shape. Also, the forced pressure created by the stretching movement has a tendency to loosen the stones from their setting and fall out.

When looking at rhinestone jewelry it is important to examine the way the products made. First look at the setting, how are the stones held in place. If they are glued, it is a low quality product. if the are set look at the prongs, how the hold the stones in place; how secure are they; how smooth is the surface; and do they catch on clothing easily. Second, look at the reverse side to se how well the product is soldered. It should be smooth without noticeable welds. third, look at the ease with which the links move together. There should be no kinks or stiffness in this movement. Finally, look at the overall color of the stones to se their clearness and brilliance. Even a rhinestone should have some "fire>"

If the stone is set in casting, it must be glued back into place. Never use a glue gun, hot glue, crazy glue, or super glue. these products will cloud the stone, or turn it black. The best glues to use are Gem Tac or Aleen's Glass and Mirror Glue. for a repair requiring extra strength, use E6000. These glues can be found in most craft stores.

HOW TO REPAIR COMMON PROBLEMS WITH RHINESTONES (LOOSE "STONES" AND CONNECTOR SEPARATIONS)

FIGURE 1	FIGURE 2	FIGURE 3	FIGURE 4
WHEN A STONE FALLS OUT, OR A LINK SEPARATES (FIGURE 1) GENTLY STRAIGHTEN THE FOUR PRONGS, SLIGHTLY SPREAD THE CUP OPEN, AND REINSERT THE "T" CONNECTOR (FIGURE 2) THEN GENTLY SQUEEZE THE CUP BACK INTO SHAPE (FIGURE 3) SECURING THE "T" CONNECTOR IN PLACE. ONCE THIS IS COMPLETED, PLACE THE STONE (POINTED SIDE DOWN) INTO THE CUP, AND GENTLY BEND THE PRONGS DOWN ONTO THE STONE TO SECURE IT IN PLACE (FIGURE 4). IN THE EVENT THAT ONE OF THE PRONGS BREAKS, THE STONE CAN BE SET USING E6000 GLUE.

Once a chain, or line, of rhinestones has been broken there are two ways to repair it. the break occurs when the double "T" connector fails. This is usually the result of the chain being pulled on too tightly, or bent with too much pressure. The damaged "T" and the cup holding it must be removed. gently straighten the four prongs and remove the stone. With the tip of a pair of needle nose pliers, gently spread the cup open and remove the damaged "T". Perform the same procedure on the next cup and remove the stone. Then gently spread the cup open and insert the two exposed "T's" into the cup to repair the chain. Once this id done, gently squeeze the cup closed to secure the "T's" in place and reset the stones., carefully bending the prongs to secure the stones. The chain is now repaired.

An alternative method of repair is to wire the broken segments to together. using a thin wire, such as that found in a twist tie, wrap the wire around the space before the broken link. Holding the broken segments together, continue to wrap the wire around the space following the break. this should secure the chain so that it is usable. of done correctly, the connection should not be too noticeable.

NOTE: SOLDERING WITH A HOME MODEL SOLDERING GUN WILL NOT HOLD. Also, the heat generated will cause the metal to turn black, and the foil behind the stone will turn dark, making the stone appear black.

As with any chain, it is only as strong as it's weakest link. In the case of rhinestone chain, it is held together by the double "T" connectors. the support needed for a full size bra will cause the "T" to break. It is unreasonable to think a full figure bust can be supported by a strand of rhinestones. Although this is a fact, "DD" rhinestone bras are available, but you should be aware of their fragility.

Rhinestone jewelry, like any jewelry, is designed to be a body accent. Under normal circumstances, it will last a long time. However, if undo pressure is placed on the links that hold it together rhinestone jewelry will break. It was never meant to be used as a costume where extreme pressure is applied. Sitting on, throwing, or mishandling rhinestone jewelry will cause damage. It is designed to be a glamour accessory, worn with care.

Like a pair of shoe, a new dress, or hosiery, rhinestone jewelry looks best when new, but does have a lifespan. How long it lasts depends on the care with which it is used. unlike diamond that last a lifetime, rhinestone jewelry must be replaced over time, just as those shoes or dress will not last forever. When you purchase rhinestone jewelry you must consider the cost as a purchase of a new accessory, not a lifetime investment.

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